VOLUME 0 ISSUE 2
For these seven young boys from Myanmar, school is this monastery nestled in a quiet residential area in the city of Mandalay.
From now till they turn 16, they will be living apart from their parents in Sulamuni Brick Monastery, following the ways of the monastic education system.
The boys, originally from Palaung hill tribe, were born in a tea-farming area in the northern Shan state. But as their village had no school, they were sent to this monastery in the city instead.
Here, Abbot Ashin U Wiseinda will be both their father and mother, and he will impart the ways of Buddhism and ensure the boys study hard. Said the man, who is also of Palaung descent: “I want to help my tribe improve by teaching the children. Hopefully it will lead to better lives for them.”
These boys’ plight are just like many others of Myanmar’s 135 ethnic minority groups. Many come from agricultural based communities, and for them, education is a heavy financial burden, especially since couples typically have at least three kids. School fees, study materials and uniforms at a government primary school add up to roughly 60,000 Kyat (US $60) a year.
On the other hand, monastic education is free. And in a country where some 89 per cent of its 50-million citizens follow Theravada Buddhism, parents also want their children to receive moral guidance from monks and nuns in their absence.
Left: Ashin Thuriya, 8, also known as Mg Eye Ha.
Since Mg Eye Ha arrived at the Sulamuni Brick Monastery three months ago to join his two brothers, he has taken on the Buddhist name Ashin Thuriya. He took some time to adapt to his new lifestyle, but has since settled down with brotherly help.
Center: Ashin Wimala, 11, also known as Win Mg.
There are three steps a child has to take in order to become a novice monk:
1.Shave his hair.
2.Wear the robe.
3.Recite the three lines: “I take refuge in the Buddha. I take refuge in the Dharma. I take refuge in the Sangha.”
Dharma refers to the teachings of Buddha that lead to enlightenment. Sangha means a community of Buddhist monks and nuns with a common purpose.
Right: Ashin Tezawbatha, 13, also known as Mg Tun Kyaint.
After their mother died, the boys’ father, who works as a tealeaf farmer, sent his five sons to Mandalay. Ashin Tezawbatha’s two adult brothers live as monks at another temple.
A TROUBLED PAST
Myanmar’s Buddhist monastic school system dates back to the 11th century and has been an important social binding tool. It provided education for children from all walks of life, helping the state achieve a literacy rate that surpassed other Far Eastern countries in the early 1900s. Even the Father of Burmese Independence, General Aung San, received his primary education at a monastic school in Natmuak, Yangon.However, as the British established their colonial rule over Myanmar for 62 years, missionary schools gradually replaced monasteries as educational hubs in the cities. In rural areas, monasteries continued to be the main centres of learning. In 1962, the monastic education system was officially abolished as the ruling junta tried to consolidate its power, implementing its socialist ways nation-wide.
This led Myanmar, once Southeast Asia’s wealthiest country and the world’s largest exporter of rice, to sink into a black hole of poverty and unrest, even as the rest of Asia jumped ahead economically. Eventually, this was why the government revived monastic education in the 1990s, to cope with the growing number of orphans and children whose families were caught in the country’s deepening economic crisis.
NEW WAVE, NEW HOPE
Today, some 190,000 orphans and children from impoverished backgrounds attend the the country’s 1,300 monastic schools. Their number are growing, as monks and volunteer teachers work hard to spread the message of hope that education will bring.Large monastic schools in the cities of Yangon and Mandalay continue to accept orphans from their villages, such as the seven boys. They rely heavily on donations to operate as boarding schools, providing lodging and meals as well. But such education centres are also appearing in villages. Three years ago, Ashin Ardaksa opened his village’s first monastic education centre. The 42-year old, who had entered the religious order to escape a troubled childhood, hopes to be help others like him. From just 46 students, it now caters to 240 needy children from a cluster of villages in Bagan.
“Even though our economic and political situations are not good, people still have a healthy spiritual well-being and seek knowledge,” he says. “If we start from our home, I believe our actions can slowly influence the whole country to progress.” According to the Education Ministry, monastic schools are required to use the same grading system, curriculum and examinations as state schools. But on top of that, students develop an ethical and moral foundation through the teachings of Buddha in the monastery. And even though it is not compulsory for the children to become novices, it is encouraged so the child can collect his own share of daily food alms.
Above Left: MORNING TRAFFIC: Locals enjoy breakfast at a teashop as a group of monks make their way around the neighbourhood collecting food alms from donors.
Above Right: EARLY BIRDS: Although it is only four in the morning, assistant teacher Ashin Zawtipala wakes the boys up to prepare for the day’s food collection. The boys cannot be late, as most donors only prepare a limited amount of food.
Top: A LINE A DAY: Ashin Nandiya, 14, recites a new line of Buddhist scripture. During the summer holidays, which last from March to June, the boys have hour-long sessions of Buddhist studies twice a day.
Middle: LIVING BUDDHAS: It is customary for monks receiving alms to be covered in their robes and walk barefooted. Uncovered feet represent the suffering of life and teach them the difficulty of getting food offerings from donors, while wrapping their robes tightly reminds them to concentrate and focus on the path ahead of them. Local Buddhists believe that supporting the monks with food or money is an honour and opportunity to gain merit as they receive blessings in return.
Bottom: FIRST COME FIRST SERVED: Ashin Teza, 9, and his friends receive their share of rice and pork curry from the Diparaye association, a Buddhist organisation that gives out food every Saturday. Volunteers, who have been up cooking throughout Friday night, help with the distribution.
Daw Katthrakayi, 51, who runs the Withakha nunnery in the outskirts of Yangon, says that sometimes, the push for children to study is a lost cause, as most rural families do not understand the potential of the changes education can bring. “For them, life is nothing more than good harvests and healthy children,” she says. “They don’t realise that with education, a child can be the master of his own life and have a chance to experience the world outside.”
Right: BOWLED OVER: According to Buddhist rules, the alms bowl is the only dish that monks can possess. Each monk has his own bowl that is used for collecting food like rice, crackers and curries. Back at the monastery, the excess food will be shared among temple staff and the monks who did not join the alms rounds. Many temples also allow the destitute to have meals. No food is ever wasted as any leftovers are given to stray animals in the compound.
Bottom right: BUDDING LEADER: Although each boy has a set of allocated chores, the older ones like Ashin Tezawbatha usually end up doing all the work. While the rest have gone outside to play, he cleans up after lunch.
D-I-Y WARRIORS: Inspired by Jumong, a Korean drama about a modern-day Robin Hood, the boys created bows and arrows with discarded tree bark and cloth from their old robes. They spend most of their time role-playing in an abandoned field behind the monastery. Other than a football, they do not have any toys.
BUDDHA BY MY BED: Instead of pop singers or cartoon characters, religious posters depicting Buddha in various praying positions fill the walls around the boys’ beds. Two or three boys share each bed space.
FINDING LIGHT: Chronic power shortages in cities like Mandalay and Yangon range from six to 12-hour intervals every day. While the state-controlled media has offered little explanation, many believe the blackouts may force government workers to move to Naypyidaw, the new administrative capital. These novice monks, like others who cannot afford their own power generators, have to rely on candles to carry out activities at night.
WINDOW TO THE WORLD: Around 160 novice monks gather faithfully in front of a small television set every night at nine to watch Jumong, a popular Korean drama series that has been dubbed in the Myanmar language. Growing up in an environment isolated from modern phenomena like the Internet, TV shows are the only connection the boys have with the rest of the world.
